1.0 ISTILAH JAHITAN
A number of terms used in sewing may be puzzling to you at first. The ones listed below are all defined in their proper places in the book (see the INDEX). In case you should come upon them without their explanation, however, here are some quick definitions.
- Back-tack - A few stitches taken in
reverse to secure a line of stitching.
- Bar Tack - A very short thread
reinforcement for points of stress
- Baste-marking - Marking with hand- or
- Clean-finishing - Edge of fabric turned under
once and stitched. Used on edges of facings, hems, seams, etc.
- Construction stitching - Stitching, such as seams and
darts, that shapes and holds a garment together (as distinct from
stay-stitching, finishing, etc.).
- Crocking - Color rubbing off.
- Directional stitching - Stitching with the grain in
woven fabrics. In knits, stitching all seams in the same direction.
- Ease - The allowance added to a body
measurement to make a garment wearable.
- Ease, to (verb) - To
attach a fabric edge to an edge that is slightly shorter. When
ease-stitching, the longer edge s very slightly gathered.
- Fashion fabric - the outer fabric in a garment.
- Finger-pressing - Opening seam allowances with
the thumbnail. Mostly used on fabrics that cannot be pressed.
- Give - the degree of elasticity in a
fabric or a thread.
- Grading - Trimming each seam allowance
to a different width to reduce bulk and avoid a ridge.
- Hand - The feel and drape of a
- Interlining - a layer of fabric added to a
lining for warmth.
- Miter - The diagonal fold made at the
corner in an edge finish, such as a binding, hem, etc.
- Nap - In actual fact, the raised,
hairy or downy surface on fabrics such as flannel, etc. In patterns,
however, "with nap" means any fabric surface that looks
different when held up or down, such a s pile, knits, one-way designs.
- Non-woven fabric - A fabric not woven or knitted
from thread or yarn. Non-woven fabrics, include fake leather and suede,
felt, various interfacings.
- Notches - Markings on patterns used for
matching. They are no longer notches but the opposite-they stand out from
the cut edge. Notches cut into the seam allowance may weaken the seam.
- Pivoting - Moving the fabric around with
the machine needle in it and the press foot up.
- Pre-shrinking - Shrinking done before a fabric
- Self-fabric - The fabric from which the
garment is made.
- Sizing - A starch-like finish, added in
the manufacture of some natural-fiber fabrics and rayon. It is water- and
- Stability - The degree to which a fabric
resists pulling out shape.
- Stay - A tape added to a garment part
to keep it in shape.
- Stay-stitching - Stitching done inside the seam
allowance, before construction, to stabilize curved or slanted edges.
Usually done on a single thickness, but also used to attach interfacing.
- Stitching-in-the-ditch -Stitching on the right side
through a seam (in the ditch"), to fasten something underneath.
- Test seam - A seam done on a scrap of the
garment fabric to test the machine stitch.
- Topstitching - hand- or machine-stitching,
either functional or decorative, that shows on the outside of a garment.
- Under stitching - a line of stitching along the edge of a facing or under collar to keep it from rolling to the outside.